my2cats
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Joined: July 2008
Posts: 63
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Post by my2cats on Apr 21, 2009 20:57:57 GMT -5
Wow, I hope my cats are not that picky. I work all day so if one cat used the box I am not able to immediately clean it. I usually clean them once a day, but will try to start doing it twice. One of my two cats I've had longest, and she always has had a problem "thinking outside the box", but only with #2. Which is still not pleasant, but it's easier to clean up thoroughly. So that's why I'm a little surprised to find out the pee problem is as widespread as it is. I really wish there was some way I could get rid of my "immunity" to the smell. Unpleasant though it might be, at least I could tell if I were making progress.
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Post by crazycatlady on Apr 21, 2009 21:15:56 GMT -5
I would have the carpet professionally cleaned by someone who is familiar with pet odors. I think that the professional machines do a deeper cleaning than the rental machines. Then if you still think it is necessary, you could use one of the rental machines a week later. Do not over-use a carpet cleaner...you really want to allow the carpet to become fully dry before rewetting it.
Can you invite a friend over to do a sniff test? That would be the safest. I know that I was paranoid about having multiple cats, and the house being smelly. I used to always ask the one friend who visited occasionally to do a sniff test, and to be honest with me.
I used to foster cats and kittens. I think that a very valid thing to do with cats (or other pets) is to limit their range. Put them in one room with their litterbox, to help retrain them to use it. I have even locked cats in a large cage (two large dog crates wired together). My cage is currently on loan to a co-worker who had a neutered male cat spraying. He has been in the cage for over a month, and is happy as a clam. He is using his litterbox regularly, with no more accidents.
Are the cats neutered? That is important.
And I totally agree with the vinegar taking away stinky smells. A small cup with some vinegar in it, set in a corner of a room, really takes the stink away. I wonder if it would be possible to put some in the hallway? Could you put a nice springtime plant just outside your door, the kind that does not need a plate under it? And put a plate or dish under it, with a bit of vinegar in the dish. I'll bet no one could smell any stink then! (Helpful inside, too, of course. But working on the outside might help with whichever neighbor has picked up the smell!)
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my2cats
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Joined: July 2008
Posts: 63
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Post by my2cats on Apr 21, 2009 21:18:22 GMT -5
Yes - both cats are female actually, but they are fixed. We unfortunately can't put anything in the hallway.. though I have been considering putting a decorative wreath on my door with a deodorizer nested inside
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my2cats
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Joined: July 2008
Posts: 63
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Post by my2cats on Apr 21, 2009 21:29:38 GMT -5
Is there a danger for the carpet to be rewet before it dries? I was thinking going over it again and again, cycling water + cleaner through it would get more urine out each time, then let it dry.
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Post by Cince on Apr 21, 2009 21:30:26 GMT -5
Hi My2cats, I listen to this veterinarian on a weekly radio talk show sometimes, and he recommends scoopable litter boxes, and at least one litter box per cat, and I think he recommends scooping each box twice a day. I have 2 boxes for my one cat, and I am doing good to scoop them once every day, I think. I really like the scooping method better than the other way of changing out the whole thing. Here are some articles I found: ezinearticles.com/?Why-You-Need-A-Blacklight-To-Clean-Cat-Urine&id=344751www.howtodothings.com/pets-and-animals/a4682-how-to-clean-up-cat-urine.htmlThere's more info out there too about cleaning up cat urine. Your post has reminded me to go scoop my cat's boxes! I haven't done that yet today. Good luck to you My2cats!
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my2cats
New Member
Joined: July 2008
Posts: 63
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Post by my2cats on Apr 21, 2009 21:37:57 GMT -5
Interesting.. I will see if I can get a black light at PetSmart tomorrow. I usually scoop but then after a month or so I end up dumping the whole box of litter - it seems like sometimes even the clumping litter starts to get saturated with urine at the bottom or edges and if it's no longer clumping well I figure it's time to dump and restart. Maybe I need to start scooping twice a day though... man those cats really made a mistake rejecting that automatic litterbox, they didn't know how good they could have it
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Post by crazycatlady on Apr 21, 2009 21:41:02 GMT -5
I have a carpet cleaner, and it cautions not to go over one section too much, and put too much water in. I think one concern is that you don't want to soak the water down too much....you are trying to pull stuff up and out. I think (personal opinion) that you would get it cleaner by allowing it to fully dry in between cleanings.
I would be worried about the carpet possibly getting mold or mildew if it stays wet for too long. Fans or heaters would probably help it dry quicker.
I would definitely hang a nice spring wreath on that door...either with lots of fabric ribbons which are sprayed with febreeze daily, or something with eucalyptus or cinnamon sticks!
I have heard that you should have one more litterbox than you have cats. I personally have a litterbox in my living room, and it stays there whether we are having company or not. Very stylish, and crazycattish.
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Post by mariposa on Apr 21, 2009 21:45:31 GMT -5
I haven't read all the replies so I may be duplicating some suggestions:
1) Have your cats checked for urinary tract infection. This is not something that is routinely done at check ups. This will involve getting a urine sample (preferably sterile) from each cat.
2) Assuming there is no infection, I would confine the cats in a large cage(s) with a litterbox until they start using the boxes with no accidents. Then I would move them to be confined in a single room, and only after behaving themselves would I let them in the rest of the apartment.
3) While they are confined, I would have the carpets cleaned very well. I would make sure whatever service you use specifically treats for cat urine. There are certain chemicals they can use. Covering up the spot with deodorizer does nothing, they will just go back to it.
4) It is recommended to have at least one box per cat PLUS ONE MORE. So if you have 2 cats, have 3 litterboxes. Scoop twice a day, try different litters in case they are picky.
5) If those things don't work, I'd talk to your vet about a behavioral consult.
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Post by Meme on Apr 21, 2009 22:25:38 GMT -5
boy- this tough- I did hear from Martha Stewart that certain foods can make the odor of the urine and poop stronger- and smelly- I know that we had a problem at one time with kitties making the house smell in just one day and discovered that feeding them any food with fish was causing the problem- we then got special food from the vet shop which of course. was more money but it sure cut down the smell from the litter box- also have a litter box for each one alas when we are in the odor we do not notice it- sigh- kind of used to it - the hard thing about odors is that they can move in the stranges ways- and can sneak into hallways etc- most cats are quite clean if they have a clean area - not sure if they are boys as some boys will spray even after being neutered- I do remember that there was or is a special spray that is suppose to heal the smell if they spray the problem with spraying is sometimes they will only spray a few drops so you may never find where they are spraying- girl cats will spray if they have a bladder health problem - I forget all the things I once knew about cats- I hope it will work out for you and them.
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Post by skatters on Apr 21, 2009 23:04:57 GMT -5
I would take the suggestion of some and buy a black light, figure out where the cats are going. If you can figure out where, then you can put an extra litter box there. If the blacklight doesn't work - I would put on a clean pair of socks and step over every square inch of your carpet looking for wet spots. Including corners. Might be gross - but... I do feel it is important to isolate the source of the smell. I would suggest that you clean your carpets, and that very same day - call the landlord in to check. While everything is still fresh and new smelling. In my experience, the professional carpet cleaners are the best. Usually, they can get the carpet fairly dry. Usually it feels dry to the touch by the end of the day. I notice no odors, except for a faint 'clean' smell. I am in the midwest, US. Here, we have Stanley Steemer... a cheap, easy carpet cleaning company. They pump in huge amounts of hot water, and suck it up using industrial hoses that are housed in their truck. Usually, they do my living room/dining room combo for $60-$100. And that includes using a pet enzyme cleaner solution. And as long as your carpets are clear, they will take care of all the furniture moving and such. www.stanleysteemer.com/Home.aspx - there is the link if you want to check out their quotes online. (I know some have not been happy with Stanley Steemer, but I have not had a bad experience with them... and they are so cheap, it is hard not to like them.) Maybe you can ask the landlord about which company he uses for carpets? If you do it yourself, there is a lot of leg work. I have also rented rug doctors, and the cleaners and pet enzyme cleaners can be expensive, along with the cost of rental. In my experience, the floors stayed wetter, and took longer to dry when I clean my own. AND - in my pet areas, the smell gets worse before it gets better. I think it is Nature's Miracle that says on the back of the bottle that the urine smell won't go away until the carpet and the pad are completely dry - which can take weeks. And I have noticed this to be true. After analyzing costs of both methods - I will no longer clean my own carpets. It is far too easy to have it done. I wish you and the kitties well!
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Post by skatters on Apr 21, 2009 23:08:13 GMT -5
Oh! And don't forget to check your furniture! When I was single, I sat in one chair... the cats could have peed all over the couch, and I might never have known.
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Post by CourageouslyLion SeeksSerenity on Apr 22, 2009 0:06:26 GMT -5
- Oh! And don't forget to check your furniture! When I was single, I sat in one chair... the cats could have peed all over the couch, and I might never have known. Good point! -
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Post by CourageouslyLion SeeksSerenity on Apr 22, 2009 0:51:20 GMT -5
- First, use the special blacklight you purchase at a pet store. It will detect any residue. However, it sometimes also detects ancient residue from prior tenants ... so you'll have to use some common sense when using the blacklight. RE: enzyme cleaners that are designed to neutralize pet odors: * the enzyme is destroyed by soap! Therefore, mixing Nature's Miracle with soapy water is counter-productive. It is true, that the best way to neutralize such odors is to pour the Nature's miracle directly on the areas detected by the blacklight. However, Nature's Miracle (or any other pet enzyme cleaner) won't work effectively if the carpet is already saturated with soapy water. Or if there is dried soap from previous washings. If the carpet is soapy, or has dried soap residue, it's best to rinse it thoroughly and suck up all the soapy water, until the water comes out clear and not soapy. You can see why this is a hassle ! Once you have a soap-free area, that the blacklight still detects residue in, then you can apply the Nature's Miracle (or whatever brand of enzyme cleaner for pet odors). Be sure to pour the enzyme cleaner in a circumference of several inches outside the detected spots. Urine tends to leach through carpet outward diagonally. So even if it's a one-inch-diameter spot on surface of carpet, there might be a three-inch-diameter spot on the padding underneath the carpeting. I believe that all of the "enzyme cleaners for pet odors" work in the same fashion as I have described for Nature's Miracle. Once you've applied the Nature's Miracle, then you really do have to let it dry for 2 weeks. It takes that long to completely neutralize the odor. Annoying but true. If you re-wet it before the Nature's Miracle dries ... well then you're delaying the process of achieving your desired result. If you have plenty of time, money, and energy, this would be the best way to handle the situation. However, with your landlord possibly implying a deadline, I suggest that you do as others have recommended on this thread -- and hire a professional who KNOWS how to handle pet odors. Not some small cheap company. Get a PROFESSIONAL. If you do choose to buy Nature's Miracle, note that they have two varieties: regular and "just for cats". I suggest the cat version. You could always buy some to keep it on hand for future accidents. It's easy to find at pet stores. --- HOWEVER .... I have heard that the BEST product is "Kennel Odor Eliminator" (K.O.E.), made by the Thornell Corporation. Thornell makes products for odors for various animals including cats. I've been told however that the best product of theirs (even for cats) is the Kennel one. On former forums at Squalor Survivors, someone wrote that this product had worked in extreme cases. This is supposed to work way better than Nature's Miracle. It's not an enzyme cleaner -- so you CAN mix it with soapy water. From all the product blurbs I saw on multiple websites: Add only 1/4 oz (not 1 oz.) per gallon of water. That would be a half-tablespoon of Kennel Odor Eliminator mixed into a gallon of water. Strong stuff. www.thornell.com/index.php?p=page&page_id=koeYou can probably order it online from various pet supply web stores. Or inquire at your local farm and feed store. Their website has some interesting info: Did you catch that? Decayed cat urine is chemically similar to the chemicals within skunk odor ! They say you need to pour the solution through the rug and pad and into the floor below, if the urine has seeped that deep. Lots of info on the science of odors on their FAQ page: www.thornell.com/pages/faqs.html-
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Post by Di Dreaming on Apr 22, 2009 8:00:00 GMT -5
Working on badly cat peed carpet in the hall for a couple of days. I have found something that seems to work that goes against all the advise here, but it's working. Do you have access to a powerful shop vac? Can you beg, borrow or steal one? I have been getting buckets of hot -- extremely hot water with a generous pouring of baking soda and just pouring it into the worst of the stains... then IMMEDIATELY sucking it up with the shop vac. You would not believe how clean the carpet is coming and the smell is going down quickly. I thought the hall was a lost cause.
Be prepared to be totally grossed out. You would not believe how much gank is being pulled out of the carpet this way.
When I get the worst of the urine up I am going to let it thoroughly dry (putting fans on it and turning on house AC) THEN I will shampoo the carpet with a regular carpet cleaner.
NOTE: This is for seriously bad areas! This comes under the blanket immunity of "You can't ruin an already ruined item." If it makes it better -- great! If not -- well, it was already ruined.
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Post by CourageouslyLion SeeksSerenity on Apr 22, 2009 8:52:55 GMT -5
- Yes! I agree with dwa20 about the wonders of the Shop Vac (aka Wet-Dry Vacuum). A good quality one will suck up water in a wonderous way.
And she is right about Baking Soda. It does neutralize odors.
I haven't tried her method of "baking soda dissolved in hot water" but it makes perfect sense. You'd be pouring that hot solution onto the carpet and allowing it to seep into the padding where the smell hides. Makes perfect sense.
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