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Post by CourageouslyLion SeeksSerenity on Nov 22, 2011 1:37:08 GMT -5
add your tips here
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Post by CourageouslyLion SeeksSerenity on Feb 20, 2012 13:35:38 GMT -5
If you want to get rid of the cat urine odor in anything at all, this link www.caturinetips.com has very good detailed instructions for a variety of different places (different types of floors, furniture, bedding, clothing, etc.).
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Post by CourageouslyLion SeeksSerenity on Mar 23, 2013 23:15:05 GMT -5
i've found a cleaner, and i'm saving my pennies for it. It's called D-molish, and it's by Neutron, and it is fabulously amazing at getting rid of odors, not covering them up. A friend brought it to the shelter last night, and it actually took away the smell of where a cat sprayed. Really. It doesn't cover up, it has enzymes that actually destroy the odors. messymimi
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Post by syzygy on Mar 25, 2013 1:11:40 GMT -5
I love Anti-Icky-Poo! They also have one specifically for stain removal which I haven't tried yet (fortunately!). One thing that might be useful when trying to remove stain/odor from a carpet is a "carpet injector". It forces the liquid down into the rug so it can get to the rest of the mess.
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pixiegirls
New Member
Joined: October 2010
Posts: 1
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Post by pixiegirls on May 18, 2013 1:42:33 GMT -5
I often use several products when trying to remove cat urine. Especially with 3 cats. The most recent that I have found effective, and I can identify specific urine spots is Bissell's Pee-Eww. It comes with a bottle of enzymatic solution for the cat urine, as well as a small, but bright black light so you can identify urine areas. Turn off all the lights and shine the black light around areas where you suspect a cat has urinated. If there is cat urine present, it will glow bright yellow (you will definitely see the difference on the surface). The black light is also good for finding sprays on walls, furniture, and doors (I have one cat that was able to aim fairly high). When you have found the areas, squirt/spray the solution on the areas, cover with about 2-3 layers of paper towels (I sometimes will also use newspaper on top of the paper towels). Step all over the area to begin soaking up the urine. Leave the paper towels on for about 10 minutes. Rinse, and repeat if necessary. I have had to do this a few times, and that's when I usually run out of the solution, but have easily used another one.
Fizzion is also a pretty decent cat urine deodorizer/remover. This product is recommended by Jackson Galaxy (My Cat from Hell) for removing uring and preventing your cat from further marking. I have had success using the Fizzion as well.
For laundry, and as a typical "back-up" for cat urine removal (I have been battling this for awhile) is the typical Vinegar solution. I often will add in lemon extract or lemon juice as well. Citrus aromas (lemon or orange) are supposed to keep cats away from areas or coming back as they don't like the smell. I don't know if this has always worked for me, but it does help the vinegar smell better. I also use the vinegar (cider) when my cat(s) have decided to pee on my clothes.....just lovely. Throw about a 1/2 a cup of cider vinegar into the load of wash, along with your regular detergent (and hot water). You will smell the vinegar for awhile, but the smell will go away. You may also add some of the new laundry aroma boosts to help with the vinegar odor. If the smell does not come out completely, try rewashing again with the vinegar. Do make sure that you don't completely full load so that the vinegar can get through all of the clothes. This has saved many a favorite outfit. It can also be used on furniture cleaning. And I have often added the vinegar to my steam carpet cleaning solution.
Unfortunately, I have had my cats urinate enough that it soaked all the way through the carpet and padding.....and down into the subfloor. Do not believe that just replacing the carpet will fix the problem. Your cats will go right back to the same spot, and the urine that is in the subfloor, will begin to come up through the padding and new carpet. To prevent this, after removing carpet and padding, wash the wooden (or cement) floor with a solution of soapy water, and rinse (I use a vinegar/water rinse). Let the floor completely dry. You may still smell the cat urine odor after washing the floor, and if your subfloor is extremely soaked/stained with cat urine, more than one washing may be needed. When the floor is dry, you will need to paint the floor with Killz oil based paint. You will probably have to apply a minimum of 2-3 coats, or as needed. This will help seal the subfloor from allowing the cat urine to soak through, or the odor to be noticed anymore.
Obviously prevention of cats urinating all over is best, but may not always be successful.
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Post by sidestep on May 29, 2013 5:40:33 GMT -5
Years back when my cat had a UTI & peed on my bed, I looked up how to clean a mattress/mattress stains. I found a site where a person claimed to have worked in housekeeping at a hotel chain. After toweling any wetness from the mattress, he said they used laundry detergent mixed with a little water & whipped it into a froth. They used the sudsy froth, (not the water) to clean the mattress. I tried this with good results & it didn't drench the bed! I scrubbed the suds in, let it sit, & made sure to thoroughly towel any remaining dampness before letting it air dry. I continually whipped up more frothy suds as needed to complete the job. It worked well for me.
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Post by CourageouslyLion SeeksSerenity on Nov 5, 2013 21:37:17 GMT -5
a member wrote: "I had a dog urine issue while my dog was sick and this is what worked for me.
I used BioKleen Bac Out (recommended by someone here) I used the Bio Kleen every day for a week then I would let baking soda sit on the space overnight an vacuum up in the morning. I worry that I've gotten used to the smell, but I think it's gone.
Another recommendation I've used it to get a portable black light (available at most hunting stores) and use it to look for urine spots you might have missed. You can clean all you want but if you are cleaning the wrong spot, the smell is never going to go away. Hope this helps"
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Post by wind on Nov 23, 2014 11:24:07 GMT -5
Many years ago, long before I had the internet, much less discovered this place, I had 9 cats and what can only be described as a "hoard room" so jam packed it was down to a single goat trail. I knew it smelled, but was horrified by the extent of the pee and poo when we finally cleaned it out after several years of basically being a litter box. The carpet (and padding beneath!) was actually totally salvageable with this inexpensive but time consuming method:
What you need 1) a spray bottle 2) a lot of towels 3) a shopvac 4) powder oxyclean (I used name brand...no idea if the generic would work as well) 5) a scrub brush
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the steps: 1) spray on the Oxyclean/water mix and *drench* an area (I worked in ~ 2'X 2'sections at a time) 2) rub it in with a towel 3) use the scrub brush to fluff the carpet ply and get hair out of the carpet (you'll have to pull hair out of the brush) 4) use the shop vac without any attachment to suck up the moisture (this is the part that takes forever, but it actually gets the carpet DRY, down to the pad underneath)
IIRC, it "only" took me about 8 hours to clean the carpet in that one medium-sized room. But the carpet, which was 15 years old and horribly abused by me/the cats, actually looked NEW again and didn't smell *at all*.
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Post by larataylor on Nov 23, 2014 12:05:53 GMT -5
What a great thread!
I just want to warn that *I think* Borax is poisonous to pets … at least boric acid is used to kill insects, and there are warnings about leaving it where pets could get to it. Laundry borax and boric acid are not the same thing, but I would still be careful about leaving a lot of Borax around.
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Post by Happy&DeterminedUK on Dec 28, 2018 8:15:22 GMT -5
Thanks for this... few items I have in hand!
I’m thinking litter tray will have the listerine and the rug vinegar then peroxide!
Excellent thread!
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Post by CourageouslyLion SeeksSerenity on Jul 17, 2024 11:03:54 GMT -5
Bumping up this very old thread from many years ago. Some of the participants might not be active here at this time, but the general ideas are useful.
If the products mentioned are no longer sold, or don't exist in your location, you can read the descriptions of what they do (how the chemical/enzyme process works) ---and then find a different product that works in a similar way.
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Post by CourageouslyLion SeeksSerenity on Jul 17, 2024 11:05:58 GMT -5
I have used "Pure Ayre" (note the unusual spelling of "Ayre" ) I found it helpful. www.pureayre.com
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